Feb 9 - Farewell to Istanbul
Another day full of new experiences, warm relationships and really old (and cold) buildings! When we awoke this morning, some of the snow that was dumped in DC traveled all the way to Turkey, and had frosted the ground with white. All through the morning, as we checked out and boarded our vans, and then as we arrived at Hagia Sophia (Holy Wisdom) museum, the snow fell just enough to be beautiful. Hagia Sophia was originally an Orthodox Church, built in the 6th century. Yes, in the 500’s! That is even before St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, and it truly is a marvel of architecture and history. It sits right across from the Blue Mosque and together these two remarkable structures dominate the landscape and the view for miles around. When the church was taken over for use as a mosque in the 11th century, four tall minarets (towers) were added on the outside, at each corner of the church building. This gives the building of Hagia Sophia, as well as the Blue Mosque next door, their unique and indelible profiles.
After touring this amazing building, (I have lots of stories that go along with the frescoes and mosaics which they allow you to take photos of (and I did,) we once again boarded our vans and drove to our lunch restaurant. Today we dined at Beyti, a four-star restaurant world-renowned for its meat dishes. I had been expecting that Turkey’s food would be more Mediterranean, but it is much like what I experienced in Brasil. They serve the food in courses, with many servers working around the table all at the same time. The room was beautifully appointed with white linen and china, many vases of fresh flowers, crystal and silver. Oh, did I mention that the Ecumenical Patriarch joined us for lunch? Can you even imagine this man, who in the Orthodox church is their “Papa”, coming out to a restaurant with a bunch of American Lutherans to break bread? It was such an honor to have him at the head of the table, and it was even better to watch Bishop Hanson and His All Holiness with their heads together, sharing lunch and catching up like old school chums. It was altogether charming, and yet I know their conversation ranged across issues around the globe and across the worldwide Christian church.
Back to the food. They started with some grilled vegetables and cheese. Then, some meatloaf type small cakes with potatoes and a salad. OK. Appetizers and main dish, conclude, I thought. Nope. They then brought out shaved lamb and rice. Then medallions of lamb (the best I have ever tasted…and I LOVE lamb!) Then they brought some other kind of beef and just when you thought it was safe to wait for coffee, BAM! the final course of a small cut of perfectly grilled steak. All of these marinated in thyme and other spices, and served all at once (to all 24 of us) by a large cadre of waiters. (All men.)
We then relaxed with some Turkish coffee – Anteneh, I thought Ethiopian coffee was strong. Wow! This tops Brasilian cafezinha, Italian espresso and any other dark roast pressed coffee I have had. Finally a plate of assorted sweets including a baklava roll with pistachio nut filling, another of the desserts we had yesterday, a small sweet bread and a dollup of whipped cream the consistency of divinity. Whew. It’s a good thing I have gone back to the gym, because I don’t eat like this at home!
But then it was time to say farewell to His All Holiness, which was really hard. Knowing his struggles and the gentility and grace of this man made it truly hard to leave his presence. But, black gold-tipped staff in hand, he disappeared into a black car and was gone. While we waited a few moments for the van we saw pictures at the restaurant of many movie stars and diplomats who regularly visit Beyti restaurant. You know what they say… “When in Istanbul…”
So we turned our faces toward Rome – boarded our planes to Athens and on to Rome. In about 5 more hours we touched down at the airport in Rome and were met by Matthias, from the Vatican. Another van and a long ride into town and we checked in to Domo Paulus Sextus, the hostel owned by the Vatican in the old city. It is pretty sparse here – and there are lots of men in residence. The only women I’ve seen are from our group. Weird getting into the elevator and having the men who speak English ask directly, “Why are YOU visiting Rome?” Guess I’ll find out starting tomorrow. I have not been able to access the internet here, but will stop by an internet café as soon as I can, and post this. If not, I’ll just get them online as soon as we have some free time. Talk to you again soon. Blessings, Pastor Susan