Feb 11 - Churches Old and New
We began our day with a visit to the Catacombs of St. Calixtus. This site is one of many of the series of underground tunnels beneath Rome, which were used for burial grounds for Christians during the time of Roman persecution. Although we like to think of these as secret meeting places, they were probably not, as there are miles and miles of tunnels, which are VERY small, and dark. Etched into the rock walls are little shelves where bodies were wrapped and laid. Imagine, if you will, long dark, winding tunnels which you are navigating with only a small oil lamp that fits in the hollow of the palm of your hand. Now imagine the smell of dead bodies and the uncertainty of direction. Not a place where people would want to gather, save to pay their last respects to the thousands who were martyred or died during this period. It is estimated that some 160,000 Christians were buried in the catacombs, and only a fraction of these graves remain intact. Amazing and humbling. After spending just 20 minutes underground, we were all breathing easier when we returned to the basilica (church) above, which was one of the first churches that was built in 313, once Emperor Constantine gave the word that no one would be persecuted in Rome for their religious beliefs. The underground church above the catacombs was simple and cavelike, and I saw Bishop Hanson go off to the side to put on his vestments. “Oh cool,” I thought, “We’re going to have communion.” But then he said to follow him and we went back down into the earthen tunnels to a small space that was set apart for small groups to have worship. Communion in a graveyard is a strange and yet somehow appropriate experience. And when we said the phrase, “all creatures here below” it had a whole new meaning.
Next stop, Basilica and Abbey of St Paul outside the Walls. This huge basilica was built outside Rome’s wall and is one of the four major basilicas in Rome. This one is dedicated to Paul, and his remains are buried under the altar. We were honored to have Abbot Edmund Power lead us on our tour, and this lovely and gently spirited fellow shared with us the spiritual connection he has with this huge, marble cavern that we wouldn’t even think of worshipping in. He was a gracious host, inviting us to join the monks for midday prayers before sharing their rather sumptuous lunch with us. I was seated next to a priest from Ireland named Anselm B. - not because his last name started with B, but because those in the monastery are known only by first name, and he is the second Anselm to arrive in community! Therefore, he is Anselm “B” – and he assured us that the monks do not eat as grandly as we did today.
From there we were off to the second major basilica, St. Maria Maggiore, or Mary’s cathedral. Here, the relic is not Mary’s remains, for those are not in Rome, but a small piece of wood that is said to have been from the manger in which Mary laid baby Jesus. This basilica was built in the 5th century, following the Council of Ephesus, in which it was agreed that Jesus had been “truly human AND truly divine.” Therefore, Mary was indeed the mother of God. Once that was decided, the basilica was ordered to be built in Rome to honor Mary the mother of Our Lord. The basilica stands structurally today just as it was in the 400’s.
Not so with Basilica #3 – St. John Lateran, commemorating both St John the Baptist, as well as St John the Evangelist and Apostle. This church is the cathedral for the Bishop of Rome (otherwise known as the Pope) and he presides there at least twice a year, most notably on Maundy Thursday when he is present to wash feet. This structure was built in the 4th century, but has had major renovations, additions and reconstructions. Doesn’t make it any grander. Attached is the chapel of Santa Prassede where are the “holy steps.” This flight of wooden stairs was supposedly brought to Rome from Jerusalem by Helena, the mother of Constantine. The staircase was taken from the corner of the Temple Mount where Pilate sentenced Jesus to death, and on which Jesus descended to the Via Dolorosa (the way of the sorrows) on his way to Golgotha. These steps have been in Rome since the 4th century, and when Martin Luther visited Rome in the 1500’s he prayed up these steps as all pilgrims do: on his knees, one step at a time. There are 65 steps.
Tomorrow we will visit the 4th major basilica in Rome: St Peter’s at the Vatican.
This evening we shifted gears a bit from these churches, filled with mosaics and marble and relics and no congregations, to the Ecumenical church St Bartholomew on the Tiber Island in the River Tiber. This is the church of the community of Sant’Egidio – which is a community of lay people which began in the youth movement of the 1960’s. Their desire was to live as Christ did, with a dual focus on Prayer and Service. The communities are formed all over the world, and they meet together every evening at 8:30 for prayer. Each of the members have other jobs, families, lives – and yet they feed the poor, work on social justice issues and mediation/peacemaking as they seek to become closer and closer to Christ. Following this church tour, where altars have been set up to honor the martyrs of the 20th century, we went to evening prayer with them at Santa Maria in Trastevere and then they hosted us for dinner in the former monastery attached to the church, which is their office space. What a lively bunch of faithful and Spirit-filled people. I will want to know much more about them and their movement, and will do research on them when I return to Olathe.
As you can see it was quite a full day, and we have another tomorrow. And since I was up until 2 a.m. because I SKYPE’d into Confirmation at Advent last night, I am ready for a good night’s sleep! So good night, pray for us and tonight, especially, add prayers for the community of Sant’Egidio and Abbot Edmund Power of St Paul’s. Blessings! Pastor Susan