Feb 10 - Papal Encounter
Another rainy day, only this time in Rome, Italy. We arrived last night and were met by Monsigneur Matthias Turk, who brought us to our lodging at “the domo.” After breakfast we received a briefing by Bishop Hanson and our ecumenical relations director, Bishop Don McCoid. Our schedule for the day was laid out, but the morning’s events had everyone on their “best behavior.” One never knows what will be expected or received in these ecumenical visits (I have found out.) Thus prepared, we vanned it over to the Vatican, to a special entrance where we were greeted by the Swiss Guard (those colorful and ancient uniform-wearing sentinels) and other representatives of the Vatican. We were quickly ushered into a private room, off the large auditorium where the Pope holds his “private audiences.” We learned something I had not known before: the Pope holds public audiences weekly when he is in Rome, and that is where he appears on the balcony that overlooks St. Peter’s Square, outside the basilica. The Square holds tens of thousands, and sometimes it is full to capacity!
A “private audience” is a ticketed affair, but is still open to the public who have access to tickets, but must secure them well ahead of time. The auditorium holds up to 4600, so the Pope can greet, as Pastor Roger says, “4600 of his closest friends.” Then there is what we had, which they call an “encounter.”
We were seated in two semi-circles on either side of the Pope’s very ornate chair. We waited for almost an hour while he concluded his private audience, and it was curious to hear little snips of wild applause and cheers of “Papa! Papa!” Finally we heard the crowd on the other side of the hall singing “Holy, holy, holy.” One of the Cardinals entered the room where we were waiting and asked us to stand. Then, flanked by cardinals and other attendants, Pope Benedict XVI joined us. He came in, sat down, and invited Bishop Hanson to speak. I was especially struck by how small he is in stature, and that he was wearing red shoes. (I’m from Kansas, I know about red shoes.) I smiled inside, because in my former life, at a “private audience” with Pope John Paul II, I noticed he wore Gucci loafers. I was told later it is the Pope’s choice as to what kind of shoes he wears.
Bishop Hanson gave a formal greeting on behalf of Lutheran World Federation (he is the President) and the ELCA. Then the pope gave us his formal response, at which time we all came forward to receive his greeting individually. Although we were all reverent and very respectful, I noticed no one kissed his ring.
Then they took official Vatican pictures which we will be privileged to order directly. Hopefully I will have a shot of all of us with him when I return. As quickly as he appeared, he disappeared. And we were escorted out into the private courtyard for our return to the domo for lunch.
After lunch we toured San Clemente church, which is actually three churches built one on top of another on the site of a Mithraic workshop spot. (Google “Mithras”) After that pagan cult was replaced by a 1st century Christian gathering, they built a church. In the 4th century that church became the foundation of another church building, which gave way in the 16th century to the one that stands now. Amazing.
Then off to the offices of the Lutheran Federation in Italy, which is a coalition of Lutherans churches. We heard a few updates and had coffee and snacks before returning to town to worship in a special Evening Prayer Worship at a Lutheran church in Rome, with Bishop Hanson preaching. But what made the evening extra special for me was that Amy Finnerty (of Advent!!!) who is studying architecture this semester in Italy, actually grabbed three of her classmates from KSU and met us for church. Amy and her friends got to meet Bishop Hanson and a few of our delegation, and I had a little bit of time to chat with them before we had to leave for our dinner arrangements. Hope to connect with them again before my group and Amy’s group leave town this weekend.
Our dinner was with Lutheran and other Protestant church representatives at a wonderful restaurant in Rome’s center city area. We got a chance to sit with the local religious community and have some conversation about how all this ecumenical work is affecting the local congregations. It is very hard to be anything other than Roman Catholic in Rome, and these folks really appreciated our presence with them, and some encouragement to “keep the faith!” We enjoyed making some new friends from a whole different set of people.
Then it was back to the domo for a night of rest before we go another round of sites and meeting tomorrow. Our time here is really full, and internet connections are sparse, but I’ll keep trying to keep my everyday posting schedule. Hope you are all preparing for this last Sunday before Lent begins…a time of transition and preparation. It will be a much different Lent for me this year, carrying another world’s worth of stories along the journey. I promise I’ll share. Blessings, Pastor Susan